Railpass.com Announces New Greece ‘n Italy Railpass Available For Summer Olympics In anticipation of the Olympic Games returning to its ancient roots in Athens, Greece from August 13-29, Railpass.com announced the availability of the Greece ‘N Railpass. History and culture have always linked Greece and Italy—now this regional rail pass, exclusively offered through Railpass.com, provides an inexpensive and flexible means for visitors seeking an adventurous odyssey by land and sea through both of these chic Mediterranean destinations. The Greece ‘N Railpass includes unlimited travel on the train network of Hellenic State railways and Trenitalia, plus a return crossing between Ancona/Bari and Igoumenitsa/Patras on board the Superfast Ferries ships, or between Brindisi and Igoumenitsa/Corfu/Patras on board the Hellenic Mediterranean Lines and Blue Star Ferries ships, for the period of validity of the pass. The passes are available for 4 to 10 days of unlimited first- or second-class travel in 2 months. Discounts fares are available for groups of two to five passengers traveling together, for youths under age 26 (second class only), and for children under 12 (children under 4 years are free when sharing seat or bed with paying customer).
Fares start at $214 US.According to Mike Fuller, CEO at Railpass.com, "Athens hotel bookings
Five New Resorts in Calabria Italian Properties are proud to announce the launch of five brand new resorts in southern Italy, to be situated in Tropea, Pizzo, Vibo Valentia, Amendolara and Trebisacce.
Pre-launch discounts available from between 6-10% off until August! With prices starting from ONLY €115,000 the best has never been so affordable.
Each of our resorts offers a beautiful location, coupled with the opportunity of stunning sea views in most, direct access to facilities and the beach.
* 80% LTV mortgage available, rates from as little as 5%
* Management of your properties
* Fully finished with kitchen and white goods
* Payment plans starting from just 35% deposit
<a href="http://www.italianproperties.org/calabria.html"
italianproperties.org/calabria.</a>
Southern Italy represents one of the finest investment opportunities in Europe. It posseses all the benefits without the inflated property prices of the more established northern Italian market. With miles of unspoilt coastline, rich in culture and steeped in history, it has long been a well kept secret by Italians and has a very strong homegrown tourist trade. The Italian government are ploughing 100 million Euros into the area to improve infastructure and to bring in more foreign investment making this already economically strong country even more attractive. With year on year capital growth predicted at 20-24% the potential of this intoxicating area is enormous.
Peace of Mind
Developments in Italy are bank guaranteed, giving you added reassurance when investing your money.
Investment
The government are set to invest €100 billion into the south of the Italy to improve infrastructure.
Climate
Mediterranean climate offering temperatures between 15-31 degrees year round.
Accessibility
There are currently several low cost airlines such as Ryanair, Alitalia and Aer Lingus flying from London, Manchester and Dublin with the added benefit of a short 2.5 hour flight.
Tax benefits
No Capital Gains Tax, plus clients can rest assured that there is a double treaty taxation in place between the UK and Italy. No Inheritance Tax. Inheritance tax was abolished in 2001.
Capital growth
In 2007 property prices increased by 25%. According to Media reports and studies prices are expected to increase by 20-25% per year for the next 5 years.
Beaches
Tropea was awarded the number 1 beach holiday location in The Sunday Times Top 20 Beach Holiday.
Tourism
Tourism predicted to rise year on year offering fantastic rental potential on your property if required.
Activities
New PGA Golf courses planned. World class diving and expanding ski resorts.
Culture
Steeped in history, art and culture Calabria has many beautiful beaches, historical sites and places of interest for the more intrepid traveller.
EU member
No restrictions on members of the EU when purchasing a property in Italy.
See full details of the Five New Resorts in Calabria <a href="http://www.italianproperties.org/calabria.html"
italianproperties.</a>
]]> Undiscovered Italy It is a cultured crowd (or at least they would like to think so) who make for Tuscany in summer. The region's undulating olive groves, Renaissance towns and stone borghi satisfy their romantic definition of "summer holiday".
But those who dream of owning an Italian farmhouse in Tuscany will find the prices far from romantic. In sought-after parts of the region (so-called Chiantishire, for example) and even in neighbouring Umbria, an average four-bedroom, stone farmhouse can cost about €1.2 million.
The British outpost, however, comprises a relatively small area of Italy. If you venture an hour north into Lunigiana or south into Emilia-Romagna, equivalent properties can cost up to half as much - and there is still plenty for classics scholars to sink their teeth into.
For those prepared to explore, there are many lovely, old houses within easy reach of unspoilt coast and countryside all over Italy. Hardened Tuscanophiles will take some convincing that the countryside in Basilicata, in the far south, could be mistaken for Tuscany, but the €600,000 (£475,860) price tag for a bespoke stone farmhouse, surrounded by olive groves, might get them thinking. Here are 10 of the most enticing areas.
1. Majella, Abruzzo
Getting there: Abruzzo International Airport, Pescara La cucina: Maccheroni alla Chitarra, black truffles I vini: Trebianno
Abruzzo has slipped through the net of most British second-home owners. "Abruzzo has everything, yet still only Italians seem to be aware of it," says Lorna Richardson of Properties Around Italy. It is fronted on one side by the Adriatic coastline, with Europe's only blue flag beaches (seven in total). Further inland are some of Italy's best-preserved medieval and Renaissance hill-towns such as Castel del Monte and Santo Stefano di Sessanio, as well as the Roccaraso ski area and national parks.
"I spent more than six years searching all over Italy to find my ideal property. I now live in Abruzzo. I rest my case," says Ms Richardson. "I can ski in winter, a 15-minute drive from my house, I can be on the beach in the summer, a 30-minute drive, and I live in the national park, with views to die for. Nowhere is like Abruzzo."
2. Le Colline Pisane, Tuscany
Getting there: Pisa airport La cucina: Peposo della Fornacina (beef cooked in a cotta pot with herbs and black pepper)
I vini: Chianti Colline Pisane
The hilly countryside south-east of Pisa is less "discovered" than other parts of Tuscany, but is still a viable option for culture vultures, as it is less than an hour away from Castiglioncello, Forte dei Marmi, Florence and Lucca.
3. Casperia, northern Lazio
Getting there: Rome Fiumicino and Rome Ciampino airports La cucina: Saltimbocca alla Romana (sliced veal with ham in a Marsala sauce) I vini: Cerveteri vineyards, and Est Est Est from Montefiascone
All eyes are on Viterbo in northern Lazio, as the area has been chosen for Rome's third international airport. Regular flights from the UK will boost the local economy and open up the surrounding countryside. The airport will serve both Rome and northern Lazio, bridging the gap between Rome and southern Umbria and Tuscany.
Northern Lazio is dotted with medieval villages, such as Bagnaia, Montefiascone and Vitorchiano, and features two picturesque lakes, Vico and Bolsena. Further east towards Umbria, around the medieval town of Casperia, 45 minutes from Rome, there are stone properties and villas for sale at a fraction of what they would cost across the Umbrian border.
4. Corinaldo, Le Marche
Getting there: Ancona, Rimini, Bologna airports La cucina: Vincisgrassi (baked lasagne without tomatoes) I vini: Verdicchio wine
The Italians have claimed the coast of the Le Marche (pronounced Markay) region, and left the rolling inland countryside free for British buyers.
"Le Marche is perfect for people who are gutted they can't afford to buy in Tuscany," says Dominic Hepplethwaite of Live In Italy.Expect to pay about €200,000 for a stone house with rural views, surrounded by private land, requiring renovation.
Dermott Sales, of Le Marche Townhouses, recommends Monterubbiano, Corinaldo and Ostra Vetere - medieval and Renaissance towns within easy reach of beautiful walking country and the Adriatic coast. "The best properties for sale in Le Marche tend to be between 5km and 25km inland from the Adriatic coast, as they have the best of both worlds, with the sea less than 25 minutes to the east and the mountains and skiing only 30 to 45 minutes to the west," he says.
5. Garfagnana Valley, Tuscany
Getting there: Pisa airport La cucina: Zuppa di farro (Tuscan bean and barley soup)
I vini: Sangiovese wines and vin santo
Garfagnana, north of Lucca, does not rival Florence or Siena in terms of culture, but the countryside is brimming with nature and you are offered a lot more property for your money (€400,00 to €600,000 for a property with land, compared with €1.2million to €1.3million in the most popular parts of Tuscany.)
"You have a Tuscany address, but it is more isolated," says Dominic Hepplethwaite. This did not deter Carducci, Pascali, Shelley and Byron from visiting, and the annual jazz festival at Barga, near Castel Nuovo di Garfagnana, is attracting a larger crowd each year. Try not to let the fact that it is one of Italy's rainiest regions put you off.Garfagnana's proximity to the mountains, forests and coast will compensate for the unpredictable weather.
6. Oltrepo Pavese, Lombardy
Getting there: Milan airports La cucina: Salame di Varzi and black truffles I vini: Oltrepo Pavese (DOC)
The region of Oltrepo Pavese is called "Little Tuscany" by those who know it, due to its undulating hills, vineyards and medieval hamlets. Until now, it has attracted mainly Milanese buyers (including Giorgio Armani) in search of a second home less than an hour from Milan. But British buyers are beginning to explore the area, finding properties priced about 50 per cent less that the equivalent in Tuscany. Towns such as Stradella, Broni and Casteggio are within easy reach of the Ligurian coast and Milan. Larger shops can be found in the university city of Pavia. Wine-tasting (wine has been made in Oltrepo for 3,000 years), walking, and riding will appeal to British holidaymakers, but spoken Italian is essential. "No one in Oltrepo Pavese that I have contacted from the property industry has ever attempted to speak English," says Paul Hudson of the Property Finders.
7. Lunigiana, northern Tuscany
Getting there: Pisa, Parma and Genoa airports La cucina: Testaroli with pesto sauce I vini: Vermentino Colli di Luni DOC
Squeezed between Liguria, Tuscany, and Emilia-Romagna, Lunigiana is a region of Roman ruins, medieval castles and baroque palaces. You might have heard of Cinque Terre, on the nearby Ligurian coast - five fishing villages, built on stone spurs, with coloured properties popular with wealthy Italians. But you may not have ventured further into the Lungiana hills, where there are vineyards and hidden villages.
8. Piacenza, Emilia-Romagna
La cucina: Parma ham, balsamic vinegar, parmesan. I vini: Lambrusco. Getting there: Bologna, Milan (Bergamo), Milan airports
The plains of Emilia-Romagna are dotted with grand towns such as Bologna, Parma and Modena, but if you venture into the mountainous north-west, there are good-value stone farmhouses and villas. Admittedly, it can be isolated, but if you are a nature-lover, it is a more affordable option than Tuscany or Umbria. Rupert Fawcett, of Knight Frank, recommends Val Tidone and Val Trebbia, two valleys popular with the Milanese and Genovese. "The surrounding Piacentini hills offer a similar landscape to Tuscany, but are better priced," he says.
9. Otranto, Puglia
Getting there: airports at Brindisi and Bari La cucina: Taiddha (mussels, potatoes, pecorino) I vini: Salento Puglia
Southern Italy has more Mediterranean and Greek influences than the north, and this is reflected in the architecture and cuisine. Lecce, on the coast, is widely regarded as "Florence of the south", but unlike its northern twin, it is created from pietra leccese, the local stone. Here, there are designer shops, restaurants and a half-buried Roman amphitheatre. There are stunning beaches between Lecce and the town of Otranto - popular with Italy's jetset, with regular ferries to Greece.
"Puglia is beach-orientated," says Rupert Fawcett of Knight Frank. House prices in the region have risen by 8 per cent in two years; buyers can choose between masserie (traditional courtyard farmhouses) and trulli (conical-shaped, white-washed houses, designed to be cool in summer and warm in winter) that cost as little as €30,000.
10. Matera, Basilicata
Getting there: airports at Brindisi and Bari La cucina: calzone di verdura (folded pizza with chard, peppers and raisins) I vini: Aglianico del Vulture
The lesser-known Basilicata forms a triangle between Campania, Puglia and Calabria, and, according to Rupert Fawcett, the landscape could be mistaken for Tuscany. "It is geographically closer to Greece than Milan," says Mr Fawcett. "And this is reflected in the food and culture." There are good beaches and countryside, with stone villages and vineyards.
Italians don't go in for glossy brochures. The best properties are often found by word of mouth.
Be warned: if Italians smell a foreigner, they are prone to double the price.
Negotiate: prices are flexible by as much as €200,000.
For rentals, buy in an area with a good infrastructure: airport, station, and motorway.
Seek financial and legal advice before purchase.
Both buyer and seller must pay agent's fees, usually 3 per cent.
]]> Italy set to abolish property tax Following last week's elections in Italy, the country's government should soon be implementing some reforms, which could spell good news for Italy's housing market. Newly re-elected Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi has pledged to see his electoral campaign promises through.
During the run-up to the Italian elections, Berlusconi pledged to eliminate the main Italian property tax. At the first meeting of his newly formed government, the Italian PM said that this is a promise he would fulfill, despite the estimated cost to the government. Abolishing the principal property tax in Italy (the ICI) would undoubtedly be a boon for any investor in the Italian property market, but it is reckoned that by doing so, the government would see a loss of roughly € 2 billion in potential revenue.
The abolition of the ICI would add to Italy's potential for those thinking of investing there, as capital gains tax (CGT) on property is wiped out after five years of ownership. By getting rid of the ICI, home buyers would be presented with another incentive to sink their money into Italy and this in turn could help to push up property prices in the country. Combined with the lack of CGT, this could mean long term investors would see favourable returns upon sale,
Berlusconi was eager to please during the electoral campaign and sceptics fear that he may have been too enthusiastic, estimating that if he were to act upon all his pre-election promises, he would need to find €63 billion of government cash to fund them,
It would seem that canny investors have already started to cotton on to the benefits of Italian property; earlier this year a survey carried out by A Place in the Sun Magazine ranked the country fifth in the top ten destinations for overseas buyers. The poll showed how Italy was muscling in on the traditional destinations such as Spain and France (ranked first and second respectively), moving up three positions from the previous survey.
Considerably lower completion costs and the potential to bypass capital gains tax will certainly benefit the already formidable Italian property market.
Non-professional investors who are looking for a holiday home that they will enjoy for at least five years, or a permanent residence, are undoubtedly the winners in the Italian property market. New tax laws now favour this sector of the market with dramatic tax benefits. Purchase costs in Italy used to be as high as 15-17%, but new rulings mean that this figure can decrease to approx 4% - 5%, which is a huge gain in some cases.
Furthermore, after five years of property ownership owners, even holiday home owners, are exempt from capital gains tax in Italy. Capital gains tax stood at 12% but under new rulings this has been raised to 20%, so long term investors seeking stability gain considerably. This coupled with inheritance tax only on high value properties and still significantly lower than that of UK death duties, is also a big factor to mature individuals looking to invest here.
Sarah Ferrara, Managing Director of Garda Homes, says, “To gain some perspective of just how beneficial the new taxs laws are, if we take the featured two bedroom apartment in Caneto, near the popular Lake Garda town of Salò, as an example, we see that under the old rules taxes on this property would have been £16,500. However, under the new rulings this figure drops dramatically to around just £2,250; the savings are evident for all to see. Furthermore, if the owner becomes an Italian resident within 18 months of purchase this figure drops again to around just £600. Therefore those looking to invest into the Italian property market to enjoy the benefits of this region also gain significantly financially. The new tax laws will undoubtedly bring a resurgence of buyers back to Italian shores which will further strengthen this market which has performed well over the last decade.”
]]> Change in Italian tax laws makes property more alluring Non-professional investors who are looking for a holiday home that they will enjoy for at least five years are undoubtedly the winners in the Italian property market. New tax laws now favour this sector of the market.
Purchase costs in Italy used to be as high as 15-17 percent, but new rulings mean that this figure can decrease to approximately 4 - 5 percent.
Furthermore, after five years, even holiday home owners, are exempt from capital gains tax in Italy. Capital gains tax stood at 12 percent but under new rulings this has been raised to 20 percent.
This coupled with inheritance tax only on high value properties and still significantly lower than that of UK death duties, is also a big factor to mature individuals looking to invest in the country.
Sarah Ferrara, managing director of Garda Homes, said: “To gain some perspective of just how beneficial the new tax laws are, if we take the featured two bedroom apartment in Caneto, near the popular Lake Garda town of Salò, as an example, we see that under the old rules taxes on this property would have been £16,500.
“However, under the new rulings this figure drops dramatically to around just £2,250; the savings are evident for all to see.
“The new tax laws will undoubtedly bring a resurgence of buyers back to Italian shores which will further strengthen this market which has performed well over the last decade.”
]]> Six of the best northern Italian towns THE most famous temptations of northern Italy - the cities of Venice, Milan and Turin, and the panoramic charms of the Lakes - make it easy to forget the diversity and richness of the region's smaller towns.
Yet from Rivoli in western Piedmont to Trieste in the east, it is possible to enjoy all pleasures of the region, but without the crowded sprawl and high prices of the larger destinations.
Here, from Vercelli to Padua, are six towns in which history and contemporary life enjoy a successful and reassuringly comfortable long-term marriage. You can reach them on budget airlines to small Italian airports, such as Bergamo and Treviso, and all are within easy reach of each other by car or local trains and buses.
VERCELLI
“You are like a land no one has ever mentioned before,” the poet Cesare Pavese wrote. So discreet is this narrow labyrinthine town that, arriving from the railway station, there appear to be no hotels. Parts of the massive Cathedral of St Eusebius go back 1,500 years. It is home to the Vercelli Book, which includes one of the earliest English religious texts, the 8th-century Dream of the Rood.
Vercelli is where England's “first tourist”, Thomas Coryat, discovered the “fork” in 1608. It is also the rice-growing capital of Europe, and the many local risotto dishes are unique to the region. Try panissa: risotto with Saluggia beans, sausage (such as the salam d'la duja) and red wine.
At eight in the evening in Piazza Cavour, the central square, there is not an empty seat in any of the three cafés, despite the rain. I am the only foreigner. “So sleepy,” says my waiter, catching the eye of a local beauty. “We are a town of 40,000, nothing happens here. Now in Turin ...”
Stay in Hotel Matteotti (00 39 0161 211187, www.hotelmatteotti.it, B&B doubles about £63) on the outskirts of town. For delicious snacks, stop in at the Sassone bakery on Galileo Ferraris, which is full of exotic breads such as fogliette and diplomatici.
CREMONA
The centre of Cremona is defined by three large squares surrounding the massive cathedral and the highest bell tower in Europe. Cremona has a musical rhythm: a four-movement day. Mornings are about shopping, a blur of colours and mercantile sounds. Afternoons can be very hot: siesta stillness hits town.
Each square has its own vibe: the cathedral square, Piazza del Comune, is older, quieter, content to watch the light play tricks on the duomo's façade. Expensive ice-cream rules. The Piazza della Pace is very young; in the Piazza Stradivari dinner is part of the process. This is the
to-be-looked-at square: the women appear to have walked out of the Bertolucci movies of the 1970s; men want to be hot footballer Paolo Maldini. A retro-is-chic feel is everywhere.
Stay near the cathedral to savour piazza life throughout the day. Albergo Duomo on Via Gonfalonieri (00 39 03 72 35 242, B&B doubles about £56) has decent rooms, a good chef and talkative diners.
Drink in pretty much any of the central bars, though the gelateria Portici del Comune opposite the cathedral, is expensive and features few Italians; if you want to be right at the centre it's better to sit on the steps of the duomo itself and eat ice-cream bought at Pierrot on Largo Boccaccino.
LODI
Just a few hundred metres from Lodi's dark Romanesque cathedral is an octagonal church, the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin Mary Crowned. It is covered, almost wallpapered, in frescoes and paintings, some by Il Bergognone. Built on the grounds of a medieval brothel as a kind of almshouse, the church is a magnificent jewel of space: a place for silent contemplation or listening to rousing music.
Locals often told me this is a ghostly and conservative farming town. But there is a marvellous rhythm, and a sense of quiet contentment. Festivals are flecked through the year, costume dramas all of them. And hidden in Lodi's nooks and crannies are fantastic cheese shops, fashionable bars, and gentle hints of history - such as the Battle of Lodi, won by the young Corsican general Napoleon Bonaparte.
Stay at the Hotel Europa (00 39 0371 35215, www.hoteleuropa-lodi.it, B&B doubles about £74). For more luxury, try the Hotel Una, near the motorway (00 39 0371 410461, www.unahotels.it, B&B doubles about £57). Eat anywhere in the Piazza della Vittoria; there are five options. I liked the Nationale best, though the Duomo feels most local.
MANTUA
The Gonzaga family ruled here during the Renaissance, but the revenues from their territories never kept up with their lavish lifestyle.Take the “secret” Gonzaga route from the palazzo back past the city walls and on to Mantua's grand central squares and palace, and stop at Andrea Mantegna's home, built with “classical” precision. Now the house is a modern art gallery, with fantastic computer-based installations about Mantengna's life: new media and classical architecture in perfect harmony.
Avoid the Piazza Sordello for food or drinks, and stick to the Piazza delle Erbe. I also enjoyed the quiet of the Ristorante Tiratappi in the small Piazza Leon Battista Alberti, and the bustle of the jazzy Delle Erbe restaurant. Tortelli di zucca (pumpkin and almond pasta) is a must here. The Hotel Rechigi (00 39 0376 320 781, www.rechigi.com, B&B doubles from about £148) on Via Pietro Fortunato Calvi is comfortably central.
PADUA
In term time students dominate the Piazza della Erbe, the focal centre of the city. In the Palazzo della Ragione, morning is a riot of peaches and barter, haggles and oranges. Above the vaulted market, the first-floor room of the palazzo is like a three-dimensional map. Four walls covered in frescoes tell the story of time, with enough visual storytelling to keep J.K.Rowling in plots for decades.
The cheap central modernism of Albergo Verdi on Via Dondo dall' Orologio (00 39 049 8364163, www.albergoverdipadova.it, B&B doubles from about £74) makes for an ideal budget starting point. I drank Campari spritz at both the main bars of Piazza dei Signori, and if the locals seem slightly chilly here, then move on anywhere in the Piazza delle Erbe.
SAN PELLEGRINO
A brief bus journey from Bergamo's railway station takes you to my favourite of all these small towns - because its pleasures are so unexpected. San Pellegrino, as the name might suggest, is a bubbly place. Hemmed in by mountains - take a day trip up to the San Marco pass and its bikers' lodge - San Pellegrino makes a sparkling debut after the smaller towns of the Brembana valley.
San Pellegrino has long been known for its spa water, but only in the late 19th and early 20th centuries did it become an upmarket destination. So, while there are no Renaissance masterpieces, or Venetian tropes, it feels easier to imagine its past than those of some of the more famous Italian towns. This is the place to write that Great European Novel.
The Centrale (00 39 0345 21008, www.albergo-centrale.it, B&B doubles about £47) is in the middle of San Pellegrino's high street with great views of the derelict Grand Hotel and the mountains beyond. The town is small enough to try out all the cafés and bars. Caffetteria degli Artisti, on the corner of Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII and Via Mazzoni, offers cha-cha-cha classes, afternoons and evenings. Until San Pellegrino Terme's spa hotel opens again (scheduled for next year), the best way to exercise is to walk
]]> Romantic Verona Get your bearings with a cappuccino in Piazza delle Erbe, the original Roman forum. The market stalls and cafe terraces buzz with trade and tittle-tattle just as they did in ancient times. One of the wealthiest cities in northern Italy, Verona has invested in the preservation of past glories. Imposing Roman gateways open onto thoroughfares hemmed with Renaissance palaces. Medieval churches built from local pink-and-white stone shield delicate frescoes. And for sheer drama, no opera house in the world can compare with the towering arches and perfectly preserved terraces of the Roman Arena.
Tradition also triumphs in Veronese kitchens, where earthy specialities such as horse-meat stew are savoured with robust Veneto wines such as Valpolicella and Bardolino. But the city has a present tense, too. Contemporary bars, name-in-lights designer stores and modernist Michelin-starred eateries lend it the air of a mini-Milan.
If you’re following in the footsteps of Shakespeare’s star-cross’d lovers, the city will satisfy even the most incurable romantic – yet its roots lie in hard-headed classical reason.
Die-straight Roman streets, two amphitheatres and the Archaeological Museum make it a must for history buffs, too. Whether you’re mad for love or longing for logic, you’re guaranteed to fall head over heels for Verona.
Quick facts
£1.30 BUYS: A glass of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene (below), a tongue-tingling spumante. £8 BUYS: A three-day Verona Card, which gives you access to museums and churches, plus free bus travel. EAT UP: Long ago, local babies were weaned on peara (purée of bread, pepper and marrowbone). It still gets served for Sunday lunch with boiled meat. GORE BLIMEY: Bloodthirsty feuds à la Romeo and Juliet were the stuff of life – and death – in Renaissance Verona. One family boiled up the liver of their enemy’s son and served him for dinner. GNOCCO ROCKS: Europe’s oldest carnival celebrates Verona’s love affair with the potato dumpling every February. On Gnocco Friday, the Gnocco King parades around on a donkey, brandishing a huge bit of pasta on a fork.
AGE OF ROMANCE
- Once the Roman forum, Piazza delle Erbe has witnessed centuries of history. Today, Balkan accordionists squeeze out Cole Porter classics for cafe crowds, under the gaze of palaces adorned with statues, frescoes and crenellations. Just around the corner in Piazza dei Signori, you’ll find a statue of Dante: it pays homage to the high priest of Italian romance, who found refuge in Verona during the 14th century, after his Florentine patrons condemned him to exile.
- Top stop for Veronese Valentines is Casa di Giulietta (23 Via Capello; 00 39 045 803 4303; £3). The honey-stoned 13th-century house once belonged to the Cappello family, and the similarity of their name to Capulet inspired Antonio Avena, director of Verona’s museums in the 1930s, to declare it Juliet’s house. It’s said that if you rub the breasts of the bronze Juliet statue in the courtyard you’ll be lucky in love. We say: pass on the grope, but do take a peek inside the house, which is daubed with frescoes narrating Shakespeare’s tragic tale. Also take a look up at the famous balcony: very pretty but very fake (it was added in the 1930s), and improbably high. (No wonder it all ended in tears – Juliet probably couldn’t hear a single word Romeo was saying.)
- Also from Avena’s 1066-and-all-that school of history, yet enjoying a certain allure among tourists, is Tomba di Giulietta (35 Via del Pontiere; 00 39 045 800 0361; £2). Housed in the echoing, empty crypt of the San Francesco al Corso convent, Juliet’s solitary, roughly hewn tomb of rose-pink stone is scrawled with graffiti by lovelorn Italian adolescents. (Did Jackie love Marco for always? You can only hope.) Be warned, however: a visit to these serene, pine-scented cloisters might tempt you, heaven forbid, to give up on passion altogether, and get thee to a monastery
Gear up for a romantic evening with a sunset stroll along Via Sottoriva. Once the artisans’ quarter, the butter-coloured arcades still shelter quaint watering holes – at Osteria Sottoriva (Where to Eat), for example, cashmere-clad crowds clutter up the cobbles with their mopeds, the Valpolicella tastes like velvet, and the meatballs deserve a medal.
CLASSICAL PERSPECTIVES
- The sense of space is overwhelming when you perch on the time-worn tiers of the Roman Arena (Piazza Bra; 00 39 045 800 3204; £3). The sinister black tunnels that burrow beneath the auditorium once spat out lions, tigers and gladiators. Today, Aida and Carmen come to an equally sticky end during the summer opera festival (June 20 to August 31; for concert tickets, call 00 39 045 800 5151 or visit www.arena.it). Still, the stage sets are sumptuous and the solitary quartet of arches (all that remains of the outer wall) peering over the auditorium reminds you that the place was even bigger in ancient times.
- Built in the year AD1, the ancient Roman road Corso Porta Bórsari is framed by Renaissance and medieval palaces garnished with Roman funerary inscriptions and carvings. These days, designer showrooms, such as Dolce & Gabbana, have colonised the ground floors; but don’t miss the Gorgon’s head carved on the corner of Via Valerio Catullo.
Experience a Shakespearean soliloquy under the stars at the Roman Theatre (2 Via Rigaste Redentore; 00 39 045 800 0360; £2). The summer performance festival runs between June and September – for tickets, call 00 39 045 807 7500 or visit www.veroneseestateteatrale.it. Aside from the actors strutting their stuff, there’s real drama in the spellbinding river and rooftop views beyond the stage. And perched above the theatre’s crescent of stone terraces, the Archaeological Museum (details as for theatre) delivers a fascinating glimpse into classical culture. Hunt down the mosaic that depicts a gladiatorial scrap in exquisite bloodthirsty detail.
- Presiding in striped splendour over a little piazza just outside the centre, the Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore (2 Piazza San Zeno; 00 39 045 592813; £1.70) is a showstopper. Don’t miss the Biblical scenes cast with breathtaking precision on the bronze door panels. Then pay homage to the magnificent triptych by 15th-century Renaissance master Andrea Mantegna above the altar. In marked contrast to the rosy complexions found in similar paintings in Venice, the icy cheeks of Mantegna’s Madonna and Child testify to the influence of cold-blooded German artists on Verona’s painters.
WHERE TO STAY
NO EXPENSE SPARED
Gabbia D’Oro, 4A Corso Porta Bórsari (00 39 045 800 3060, www.hotelgabbiadoro.it). On central Corso Porta Bórsari, this 18th-century palace has been perked up with pet parrots and orange trees. Bower-like beds are draped with lace curtains; oak furniture, opulent textiles, period ceramics and silverware create a to-the-manor-born charm. Doubles from £230, B&B.
Villa del Quar, 12 Via Quar (00 39 045 680 0681, www.hotelvilladelquar.it). Opera singers loll by the clover-shaped pool at this in-the-know hideaway. Surrounded by acres of vineyards, a 10-minute taxi ride from Verona, the 16th-century manor is decked out with silk-upholstered furniture and antique rugs. Most rooms gaze onto rolling vineyards. Doubles from £185, B&B.
MIDDLE OF THE ROAD
Hotel Giulietta e Romeo, 3 Vicolo Tre Marchetti (00 39 045 800 3554, www.giuliettaeromeo.com). Pastel-painted walls, pale floral sofas and swagged curtains give rooms in this romantic, Arena-handy retreat a welcome lustre. WiFi access and flat-screen TVs keep you in the modern world. Lovers should book rooms 101 or 103, with their Juliet-style balconies. Doubles from £100, B&B.
It is quite incredible particularly bearing in mind that clients have contacted Agents initially with a view to discount saying that with a strong euro etc the property market must be weak and with the advent of winter, people are probably not purchasing. On the contrary, figures show the market to be the opposite of their perception”.
Recent figures from Foreign Currency Direct property portal, show that overall enquiries from November for Italy were 19% of the total market with only Spain more at 27%.
There has been an initial surge of interest in the emerging markets of Eastern Europe but this tends to lead to speculation buying and with it comes inherent risks. Interestingly, figures show that the market has now turned on its head and reverted back to investors looking for established countries such as Italy where there is a track record of capital growth and rental returns. Italy has fine wines, superb cuisine and an excellent infrastructure plus a great many Italians speak some English. All of which makes owning a home in Italy a far better option than taking a chance on an emerging country. Within 2/3 years of these new countries coming onto the market, buying figures show that the tide has turned and that established countries are where investors choose to put their money”.
One of the most popular areas of Italy with buyers is the Lakes. These are a popular destination both in the winter for the skiing and the summer. With an approximate rental return of 5/9% and very few void periods they make excellent investments. The other area to look at is Western Liguria where buying closer to the sea will make a better investment even if initially more expensive.
The average property sale price in Italy is around £200,000. Recent information also suggests that there is a 12% increase in buying property abroad compared to last year all of which points to a stable overseas market in 2008.
]]> Le Marche - Investment opportunity One of the areas stirring the most interest is the delightful seaside towns of Numana and Potenza Picena on the Adriatic Coast, 5 mins from the famous Conero Golf Club. Situated just 25 minutes from the international Ancona airport,(daily flights from London Standsted and Liverpool makes these developments an easily accessible weekend destination.
It is in this location where we are marketing the delightful development villages Lido Azzurro and Borgo Marche Marina and Beach at PotenzaPicena and Marcelli di Numana resort. These latest developments are built on a panoramic and elevated location above the nearby town of the same name, offering unparalleled sea and mountain views. Each resort consists of 200 one bedroom, two bedroom apartments and three bedroom townhouses.
Lido Azzurro and Borgo Marche Marina and Beach will consist of a collection of apartments and townhouses with a comprehensive range of facilities including restaurants, shops, bars, and more. Both resorts are within a few minutes stroll of the beautiful beaches. The popular Conero Golf Club is also nearby. These off-plan properties start at just 150,000 euros . Payments can be made in stages throughout the build time, starting February 2008, with mortgages available from a variety of well known banks.
LIDO AZZURRO
This village is situated in a natural park near Monte Conero with sea and mountain views. There will be 200 townhouses ranging from 40 - 90 sqm, each with its own garden, a few minutes walk from the beach.
BORGO MARCHE MARINA AND BEACH
This village is situated on a hill in Potenza Picena, each of the 200 townhouses will have a view of the Adriatic Sea and Monte Conero. There is a range of accommodation available starting 45/55/60/75/90 sqm each with its own garden and garage or parking space. ]]> Mamma?s boys Pity us poor Italian men, said Andrea, my barber in Rome, as he gave me my new year haircut. The other customers nodded. “Listen,” said one as he leafed through Corriere dello Sport and waited his turn. “We are all men here, I can be frank. Our women have become independent-minded, they all go out to work, they don’t cook so much any more, we have to look after ourselves. We are second-class citizens.”
Now wait, I said. What about Fabio Capello? Not only did he take over the England football squad yesterday, he is a fine example of Italian manhood: elegant, sharply dressed, supremely confident, a born winner. He even likes modern art. “Well, quite,” said another customer.
To the outside world, and not least to Brits, Capello looks like an Italian New Man, a new breed of Italian male. He is happily married to Laura, his wife of 40 years, has no dalliances on the side – at least, not as far as British tabloids have been able to discover – likes Bach and jazz, reads philosophy, goes to Mass, spends his holidays exploring archaeological ruins in Tibet or Colombia instead of chatting up women on the beach, collects Kand-inskys and Chagalls and cultivates Rome’s modern artists. A far cry, then, from the unscrupulous Lotharios of old. But a welcome advance and a sign of the times?
It does not look quite like that to many Italian men. They have a sneaking admiration for old-style Casanovas – men such as Silvio Berlusconi, a self-made businessman with a buccaneering style that has involved him in several brushes with the law (which he usually wins), a penchant for risqué jokes and an eye for the ladies, to the chagrin of Veronica, his stunningly beautiful wife, a former actress. Or Marcello Mastroianni, the actor with matinée-idol looks who made an art of appearing debonair, louche and charming.
But Berlusconi is 71 and Mastroianni is dead, along with the dolce vita era that he embodied in Federi-co Fellini’s films. Many Italian men feel sorry for themselves in 21st-cen-tury Italy – browbeaten, overworked and underpaid. Even the famous Latin lover is exposed as a myth: one medical congress in Rome heard that six out of ten Italian women claimed to be “sexually dissatisfied” with their husbands, partners or lovers, according to a survey.
Chiara Simonelli, a sexologist at Rome University Hospital, says: “On the basis of my clinical experience, I can say that these statistics are inferior to reality.” She claims to know of many women in their thirties and forties who were opting for celibacy “in despair”.
Claudio Cricelli, the president of the conference, says that sexual frustration often leads to hypochondria, nervous problems and tension, adding that it was also probably one reason why Italy has such a low birth rate.
Another survey suggests that Italian men have even lost the art of picking up women – including foreign tourists – at beach resorts or in bars and pavement cafés. “Death of the gigolo” ran one headline.
And yet, underneath the gloom and self-pity, many Italian men still nurture an image of themselves as effortlessly superior beings who are born to run the world and to be admired for making a bella figura. And the reason is simple: their mothers tell them so.
While more Italian women are making careers and scoring belated victories for feminism, they are also — as mammas — doting on their male offspring in the way they always have. Take Capello’s widowed mother, Evelina Tortul, who told reporters when her son’s appointment as England manager was announced that she was “worried about my boy”, even though he is 61 and she is 85.
The media, she said at the modest flat in Pieris, near the Slovenian border, where she brought up her son and his sister Bianca, were “fine when you are winning, but when you lose they cut your throat. I’m his mother, so that is going to make me unhappy.” She added: “I wanted him to stay in Italy. He’s a big boy, he’s old enough to make his own decisions. But your mamma is always your mamma. Fabio was such a good boy . . . he comes here every summer and it’s always lovely to see him.”
Hardly surprising, then, that Italy’s “mamma’s boys” still think, in their heart of hearts, that they are God’s gift to women. About a third of Italian males, indeed, live at home until the age of at least 30, enjoying Mamma’s home comforts. Even when they marry, their wives know that their mothers-in-law are usually not far away and still have a powerful hold on their “big boys”.
As for feminism, every Italian newsstand is festooned with 2008 calendars depicting naked models and “showgirls”, who can also be seen on TV variety shows every night wearing not much more. No political correctness there, then.
According to Emma Bonino, the former European Commissioner and now Minister for International Trade and European Affairs, 11 per cent of Italian Members of Parliament are women, which is much the same proportion as 30 years ago.
Not only that, she says, but although it is true that more women go out to work, it is often part-time because there are few crèches for younger children and because older children have to be brought home by someone when school ends at lunchtime.
That someone, inevitably, is mamma. It is invariably the women who “make sacrifices” to ease the strains of daily life, Bonino says. So the lot of the Italian man is perhaps not so bad, after all — and the advent of the Italian New Man may still be some way off.
How Italian is your man?
1. After lunch, does he drink
a) a cappuccino b) a camomile tea c) an espresso macchiato
2. When driving on the autostrada, does he
a) Bowl along in the middle, occasionally veering without warning into the overtaking lane b) Edge tentatively into the slow lane and remain there unless absolutely necessary c) Weave expertly through traffic, driving very close behind anyone doing less that 90mph in the fast lane and flashing his lights until they pull over
3. At what age did he leave home?
a) 18 b) 28 (but only after his mother put her foot down about the washing) c) Hey, what’s the hurry?
4. Does he regard a scooter as
a) A bit infantile but nevertheless quite fun at weekends b) A cheap and efficient way to avoid the London congestion charge c) An instrument of extreme manliness, especially when revved excessively at traffic lights and with its exhaust modified so as to make an ear-splitting noise
5. How many man-bags does he own
a) One (and it’s more of a briefcase, really) b) None. No way c) 17 (and that’s just from his autumn/winter collection)
6. Does he wear his jumper
a) Over his shirt b) Around his waist c) Tied jauntily, at an angle, over his shoulders
7. How many cashmere items does he own?
a) A few, mostly presents from you b) 325 (not counting the socks) c) One, moth-eaten
8. What kind of pants does he wear?
a) Crumpled boxer shorts b) Very tight, white Y-fronts, bought and lovingly ironed by his mother c) Stylish designer ones
9. Does he wear a vest?
a) Only in the height of winter b) All year round, including August (you can never be too careful) c) As soon as the temperature drops below 10C
10. When skiing, does he
a) Launch himself out of helicopters, power through the powder and generally behave like a teenager on heat b) Materialise, unsmiling in an all-in-one, at the top of the blackest mogul run he can find before descending, skis glued together, in a bum-wiggling display of prowess c) Join the queue at the ski school and head out with a group of six-year-olds
11. On the beach, does he emerge from beneath his towel wearing
a) Sand-bleached surfer-dude shorts b) Tight black Speedos c) Slightly small and slightly elderly swimming trunks
12. At weekends, he helps out with the children by
a) Drafting in his mother (or, worse, his terrifying spinster sister) b) Taking them for a pizza while you treat yourself to a nice massage c) Remembering a very pressing business meeting that can take place only at the football stadium and is likely to last for at least four hours. Ciao . . .
Your man is not very Italian at all, is he? Perhaps he’s Swedish? No? Oh well, never mind. He may not rake in millions from babysitting spoilt football players, but at least he knows how to change a nappy.
15-20
Your man is distinctly al dente, but in a good way. Stylish, full of life, loyal, a little bit excitable — all the best things about being Italian. Maybe a little too fond of his Mamma, but there’s nothing wrong with that. Watch out that he doesn’t start to slide, though: if he starts doing things like tucking his napkin into his shirt, put your foot down.
20-plus
You’ve got yourself a proper Mamma's boy. There’s not a lot you can do about it while the sainted parent still walks this earth, so the best thing to do is get her on side. Swap depilation tips, share recipes (remember: hers are always superior). Keep your friends close, keep your mother-in-law even closer, as the Italians say . . .
.
]]> Italy 2008: holiday planning guide Travelling to Italy by train, waking to find that vineyards and olive groves have replaced wheatfields and willows, is far more thrilling than taking the plane. It's also eco-friendly.
Faster trains have reduced the journey time from London to Venice or Florence to 19 hours, with time for a few drinks in Paris. Fares have fallen, too: a return sleeper to Venice can cost as little as £111 on off-peak services.
That font of all railway wisdom, Mark Smith, recommends catching the 2.04pm Eurostar from St Pancras to connect with the sleeper from Paris to Venice, arriving at 9.30am the following morning. For details, see his website, www.seat61.com.
Puccini's operas are being widely performed this year to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the composer's birth. The best place to see Tosca, Turandot and Madame Butterfly is at the open-air theatre in Puccini's home town, Torre del Lago, in northern Tuscany.
The season runs from July 11 to September 5; for information and tickets, see www.puccinifestival.it. La Bohème is playing in Milan at La Scala in July.
The Italians' love of music has spawned festivals throughout the country, many taking place in July and August, including opera in Verona and at the Baths of Caracalla in Rome, ancient music in Urbino, jazz in Perugia and Pescara, and operetta in Trieste and Macerata.
Another big anniversary is the 500th of the birth of the father of neo-classical architecture, Andrea Palladio. There are celebratory events all over the Veneto, where he designed many villas, churches and public buildings.
Among the highlights are summer concerts in Palladian villas and, from September 20, an exhibition at the Palazzo Barbaran da Porto in Vicenza. It will display many of Palladio's original drawings as well as works by 16th-century painters and sculptors. For more information, see www.palladio500.it.
Venice's newest five-star hotel, a stone's throw from the Cipriani on Giudecca, is now fully open. The Palladio Hotel and Spa (0039 041 520 7022, www.bauervenezia.com) occupies a 16th-century convent designed by Palladio and abandoned for a century until this restoration. Non-residents can book spa treatments and use the Turkish hammam.
For archaeology enthusiasts, two stellar excavations are opening to the public. In spring, tourists will be able to visit several patrician Roman villas with fine mosaic floors beneath Palazzo Valentini, across from the Forum. The adjacent museum is using virtual-reality technology to recreate life in a rich Roman household based on the finds made here.
In Rimini, the excavated site of a doctor's surgery - dating from 150AD - opened to visitors last month. The remarkable collection of surgical instruments found is on display in the town's museum.
Interest in the far south of Italy continues to grow. Tour operators are now contracting some newly restored high-quality agritourism and hotel properties. The province of Basilicata makes its appearance in many itineraries for the first time.
Tourists are still a novelty away from the coast, so it will appeal mostly to Italophiles with a smattering of the language, but all visitors can expect a genuinely warm welcome, real home cooking and beautiful sandy beaches reminiscent of Corfu.
Elsewhere in the south, you can escape into the pine woods of the mountainous Pollino National Park, or the rock-hewn rooms of the beautifully renovated Hotel Sant'Angelo in trogloditic Matera, a World Heritage Site.
Eating well is an Italian preoccupation and it is almost impossible to eat badly in the south; much of the fresh food served is made from ingredients that are grown organically and dressed in simple sauces.
Many agritourism concerns in Puglia and Calabria with on-site restaurants run regular cookery lessons so that guests can master regional specialities. These should be mentioned in brochures, but ask specialist tour operators as lessons are quite a new development.
Many of Italy's most interesting wines don't make it to Britain: in fact, they hardly leave the area where they are grown. More small producers are now welcoming visitors into their cellars, and on the last weekend in May more than 1,000 wine estates will open their doors to the public for Cantine Aperte, a celebration of local wine and food. For a list of participants - and links to regional wine producers' websites listing cellars that can be visited at other times - see www.movimentoturismovino.it.
Any wine lover visiting Florence should drop into Volpe e l'Uva (in Piazza dei Rossi on the way to the Pitti Palace). This is both a bar and wine merchant, which has a big choice of wines from small, lesser-known vineyards - many sold by the glass - and an equally impressive selection of cheeses, smoked meats and artisan breads.
Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean, is appearing in more brochures as a family destination. Its white-sand beaches are among the best in the region, and most are refreshingly free of development.
There are several luxury options for holidays with young children (children's clubs, adult spa treatments, fine dining), including the Sofitel Thalassa Timi Ama, the Meridien Chia Laguna and the long-established Forte Village. Holiday Options has flights from 10 regional British airports.
The quintessential image of rural Italy is one of gentle contoured hills and lollipop cypresses leading to a terracotta-roofed farmstead of golden stone. The photographs that inspire these images are almost certainly taken in the Val d'Orcia in southern Tuscany. Now a World Heritage Site, this rural farming valley remains refreshingly undeveloped despite its proximity to Siena, with an increasing number of renovated farmhouses available to rent, excellent walking and cycling, and rejuvenating treatments in small thermal spas. Best of all, there's no major road through the valley, making it a perfect holiday destination for those in search of total peace.
Expect to pay
Here are rough guides to prices in June.
Three-bedroom villa with pool in Tuscany: £1,250 for a week's rental only. Two-bedroom apartment in Umbria: £450 for a week's rental only. Four-star hotel: £140 per room a night Expert-led cultural tour: £1,200 per person including flights Group walking holiday: £650 per person including flights Camping holiday for four (two weeks including ferry crossing): £800 Highlights coach tour: £700 per person, including flights Group B car hire: £170 (no insurance excess)
Getting there
By air
There are direct flights from British airports to 29 destinations in Italy; the majority leave from London but there is also a good choice from Birmingham, Liverpool and Glasgow. The cheapest fares are for mid-week departures.
For longer holidays in high summer it can be cheaper to take a charter flight. The seat-broker Avro (0871 423 8550, www.avro.co.uk) offers flights to Naples, Venice and Catania from seven British airports.
Holiday Options (0844 477 0452, www.holidayoptions.co.uk) operates charters to Alghero, Olbia and Cagliari in Sardinia from 10 British airports, and to Catania in Sicily from Gatwick and Manchester.
Who flies where
All destinations listed are served by direct, non-stop flights. We list all airlines flying to Italy from Britain, but regional airports may not offer all routes.
Air One (0208 939 2434, www.flyairone.it) London City to Milan. Alitalia (0870 544 8259, www.alitalia.co.uk) Heathrow to Milan and Rome. Bmi (0870 6070 555, www.flybmi.com) Heathrow to Naples and Venice. Bmibaby (0871 224 0224, www.bmibaby.com) Birmingham to Rome and, from April, to Bergamo. British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com) Heathrow or Gatwick to Bari, Bologna, Cagliari, Catania, Genoa, Milan, Naples, Pisa, Rome, Turin, Venice, Verona. EasyJet (0905 821 0905, www.easyjet.com) Gatwick, Stansted, Luton, East Midlands, Bristol, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Belfast. Destinations: Venice, Milan, Rome, Olbia, Naples, Turin, Rimini, Pisa, Palermo and Cagliari. Flybe (0871 522 6100, www.flybe.com) Birmingham and Manchester to Milan. Flyglobespan (08712 710415, www.flyglobespan.com) Edinburgh to Rome. Jet2 (0871 226 1737, www.jet2.com) Edinburgh, Belfast, Leeds-Bradford, Newcastle. Destinations: Venice, Bergamo (for Milan), Pisa, Rome and Olbia in Sardinia. Meridiana (0845 3555588, www.meridiana.it) Gatwick to Florence. Ryanair (0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com) Luton, Stansted, Bournemouth, Bristol, East Midlands, Liverpool, Newcastle, Glasgow. Destinations: Alghero, Ancona, Bari, Bergamo (for Milan), Brescia (for Verona), Brindisi, Forli (for Bologna), Genoa, Lamezia, Palermo, Parma, Perugia, Pescara, Pisa, Rimini, Rome, Treviso (for Venice), Trieste, Turin. Thomsonfly (0870 1900 737, www.thomsonfly.com) offers the biggest choice of summer services from Manchester and Gatwick; a few routes also from Luton, Bournemouth, Bristol, Doncaster, Birmingham, Newcastle, Glasgow and Belfast. Destinations: Lamezia, Catania, Naples, Venice, Pisa, Alghero, Olbia.
By rail
For excellent advice and tips see The Man in Seat Sixty-One website - www.seat61.com.
Venice Simplon-Orient Express (0845 077 2222, www.orient-express.com). Two-day journey from London to Venice £1,475 full board (single-cabin supplement £320); some trains go on to Rome (four days, £1,760).
Car hire
Italian car-hire franchises (notably at Pisa and Venice airports) are notorious for trying to sell extra insurances at the time of pick-up.
Instead of buying excess cover for collision damage waiver from the rental agent, take out annual excess reduction cover for £49 through Insurance4carhire (020 7012 6300, www.insurance4carhire.com).
Rental agents now require two credit cards as security against luxury cars such as Mercedes and Porsche.
When comparing quotes online, check that all extras are included: airport fees, out-of-hours fees, second driver and theft cover.
Overseas property investors or those seeking to move abroad will need to know how close their new homes are to communication networks. This simple requirement makes accessibility to a region one of the key features when buying property abroad. Now Italian property has improved a new high speed rail network is making this region the place to invest.
Real estate in France experienced a piece-by-piece real estate surge as its own high speed train system is put into place. This is also referred to as the Ryan Air effect, whereby values rise as budget airlines arrive. This is due to the ease of getting to property that was once considered in the middle of nowhere - or at least hard to get to.
The Italian high speed train service is known as the TAV in Italy, which stands for treno ad alta velocità, or, more generically, ES Itallia for Euro Star Italy. The high speed route from Rome to Naples is nearly complete and portions of the route from Turin to Milan are also open. Another line from Milan to Rome is scheduled to open in early 2009. The state train company, Trenitalia, has train service throughout Italy to all major cities currently. The high speed trains can run, and currently do, on several of the main line tracks, but at reduced speeds not approaching their 300 kph maximum. When the new lines are complete, they will be able to whisk passengers between the major cities throughout the country.
With the new lines and service, new stations are being built and old ones renovated. Trenitalia is investing ¬2.5 billion in new stations for Bologna, Naples and Florence and renovations in Milan, Rome and Turin. According to Carlo de Vito, who oversees the 2,400 stations throughout the country for Trenitalia, the changes can have a considerable impact: "A new station near the center of a big city makes that area more appealing to the middle class willing to commute, and the same will happen with the high speed train." He adds that ""When we open a new station there is a 30 to 40 percent rise in real estate values in just a few years." While property in Italy in major cities is improving, some see the most potential for cities that currently don't have the access of the big ones.
One such city is Genoa, the end of a planned Milan-Genoa line. These cities don't have the easy and relatively inexpensive access that the larger ones do. The new train service, much like new low-fair air service, can help newcomers get to the city and discover its charms and, more importantly, its real estate.
So what is on offer in Italy? Italian farmhouses that require renovation work, houses with rustic charm off plan property at Lake Como or city apartments in Milan. There is plenty on offer for the overseas buyers in Italy
]]> Telegraph Travel Awards 2007 When the Telegraph Travel awards were launched almost a decade ago, a baby-faced Blair was beginning his first full year in charge, Bill Clinton was fronting up to his Monica Lewinsky moment, Google was born and girl power was fading after Geri Halliwell left the Spice Girls
Ten years on, Blair appears on the ex-PM dinner party circuit, Hillary Clinton looks set to follow her husband into office, Google is now so popular it is a verb, and Ginger is back on tour with the Spice Girls. The world has changed, but have the travel tastes of Telegraph Travel readers?
Historically you, the readers of the daily and Sunday titles, have remained incredibly loyal to the destinations, companies and services you trust. Ten years on, Italy is still your favourite European country, and Titan and Kuoni are once again your preferred operators.
Those quintessentially British institutions, The Savoy and Gleneagles, are still your preferred domestic hotels; overseas, it is the style and service of South-East Asian hotels that you most admire; and Singapore Airlines and Emirates, you say, continue to be a step ahead of their rivals - a fact underlined by Singapore's launch of the new A380. If it is this remarkable consistency that gives these awards such credibility, then any change in your opinion carries even more weight.
Australia, which you said in 1998 was your favourite place on earth, may have been overtaken by its Antipodean rival, New Zealand, but the real story lies in the rapid fall from grace of the United States.
In 1998 the US could, in your opinion, only be bettered by Australia. You were among the four million Britons who crossed the Atlantic to enjoy a country that offers a diversity of landscapes and experiences that few others can match. In fact, you told us that France was the only destination where you spent more time.
But then came the World Trade Centre terrorist attacks in 2001. The US government reaction was to tighten its grip on its borders, whatever the cost to tourism. Even today the security process is perceived to be unwelcoming: Telegraph Travel readers have regularly complained about aggressive questioning by over-zealous security staff, "guilty until proven innocent" attitudes, intrusive fingerprinting and lengthy delays.
Others have quipped that the "land of the free" had become the "land of the fee", as a $10 entry charge was imposed on all visitors to pay for security improvements. With the dollar now worth less than 50p, there has never been a better time to go - financially, at least. Yet while global tourism continues its inexorable expansion, the number of visitors to the US has risen by just one per cent in a decade.
Money, it seems, is not enough to buy your love, as the US has disappeared entirely from your shortlist of favourite destinations.
Instead it is sand-between-the-toes luxury that you hanker after - the Maldives with its white sand and turquoise waters finished behind New Zealand as your favourite place on earth. But who can blame you for following the sun after one of the wettest summers on record?
For winter sports enthusiasts it is a similar story. In 1998, the US resorts of Vail and Breckenridge were firm fixtures in your top five. Today, not one US resort makes the shortlist.
US cities have also fallen out of favour. A decade ago, New York and San Francisco were two of your top three cities; now only the Big Apple makes your top 10. Graham Boynton wrote in these pages a fortnight ago of the enduring appeal of New York, but a combination of poor marketing, misguided security measures and mistrust of US foreign policy under George Bush have acted as a counterbalance to the city's obvious attractions.
Hollywood figures such as Robert De Niro have been signed up for expensive marketing campaigns (although perhaps not to extol the virtues of New York's yellow cabs), while new travel industry groups have proposed extensive changes to legislation in order to improve the entry procedure and encourage you back.
It has also been a bad month for Paris. Ongoing strikes marred the launch of the new high-speed Eurostar, rioters have again taken to the streets, and Tokyo has snatched its mantle as gourmet capital of the world (having won more Michelin stars). In less than a decade Paris has gone from being your favourite city to also-ran. With high-speed rail links making it quicker to get to Paris from London than to Manchester, perhaps this is a case of familiarity breeding contempt.
Heading downhill in France for the right reasons, however, are British skiers. Whereas in 1998 snow lovers among you went for the Swiss luxury of St Moritz or the relative wilds of Canada's Banff, today it is the very British alpine enclaves of Val D'Isère and Méribel that you most favour - a remarkable turnaround for the latter, which you voted worst resort in 1998.
But in general, your favourite destinations are now much farther flung. Lower prices, greater competition on long-haul routes and your improved internet skills mean you are more savvy and better travelled than ever before. Instead of Paris you prefer the cityscapes of Sydney, Cape Town and Vancouver. In fact Venice was the only European city to make your top six.
Meanwhile your love affair with the former colonies continues. What were once thought of just as stopover cities - fuel stops where you could stretch your legs en route to Australasia - have increasingly become holiday destinations in their own right. You only need look at the meteoric growth of tourism to Dubai and its collection of extravagant (and often garish) tourist facilities.
Your top five hotels are all in stopover cities: two in Bangkok, two in Singapore and one in Dubai. Whereas in 1998 it was the Mandarin Oriental group that captured your imagination, today it is Shangri La which boasted the top two foreign hotel berths and three of the top nine. Dubai featured again in the wave-like form of Jumeirah Beach, which was your favourite foreign resort hotel.
But in cruising your tastes are far more traditional: the likes of Ocean Village with its "cruise for people who don't do cruises" mantra seems not to appeal. In 1998 Swan Hellenic was your favourite cruise line. Since then it has been disbanded and then resurrected, courtesy of Lord Sterling and your passionate calls for it be saved. On re-launching the line, Sterling paid tribute to the Telegraph's "Save our Swan" campaign; however, the line has not returned to the seas in time to challenge Cunard and P&O as your favourites.
Back in Blighty, in our ?first year of the awards, London was calling. You voted the capital your favourite British city, and Stansted your favourite airport. Today your attentions have turned to the regions. And for good reason: the capital is over-priced (in Europe only Moscow has more expensive hotel rooms), its principal airport, Heathrow, is overcrowded and prone to delays, and the capital's transport system does not compare with those of Tokyo, New York and Paris. For example, visitors without an Oyster card must pay a staggering £4 for a single tube journey.
Instead, York, Edinburgh and Bath are your favourites, and London does not even feature in the top six. Similarly, four of your five favourite British airports are regional - Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol and East Midlands - mirroring a report we published last week showing that a record 100 million Britons now take flights from the regions each year.
You are also looking for alternatives when it comes to airlines. Your choice of Germany's Air Berlin as favourite low-cost carrier might surprise some. But as it does not charge for checking in luggage (unlike its British and Irish rivals), allows passengers a relatively generous 20kg limit and flies not just to Europe but to destinations including New York, Dominican Republic, Florida and the Maldives - direct from Stansted - your choice makes a lot of sense.
The growing problem of lost bags - BA alone has this year mislaid a million and counting - has not yet put you off checking luggage in, you say. But what really irks most of you (74 per cent) is having to pay for the privilege of entering this "lost luggage lottery". Even some scheduled airlines - Aer Lingus and Bmi, for example - have started charging £5 to check in a bag.
But for a third of you, the continuing problems at our airports have persuaded you to travel more by rail or sail. The greater punctuality of the new fully high-speed Eurostar - 94 per cent on time, compared with BA's 54 per cent - and its link-ups with regional cities make the train a real alternative for trips to Europe.
Despite the environment topping political agendas, Telegraph Travel readers pay little more than lip service to environmental issues. A recent survey of readers found that nearly half felt that the importance of getting a holiday abroad overrides any concerns they have about the environmental impact of the flight.
But can we blame them? Why should holidaymakers spend their hard-earned money on off-setting schemes when few companies profiting from our trips contribute a single penny?
Notable exceptions include SilverJet, Eurostar, the Ultimate Travel Company and First Choice, whose managing director, Dermot Blastland, has been specially commended for his hands-on approach to sustainable tourism.
You, however, are more concerned about the weather. Three quarters of you would have taken your holiday in Britain in the past two years but for the poor climate.
But your reasons for not taking more holidays at home go beyond the lack of sunshine. Nearly half of you complain that transport has worsened. Train prices continue to rise, the Underground is still over-priced and over-crowded, and roads are more congested, with 40 per cent more cars on the roads than in 1998. More than half of you - 54 per cent - feel that the food and wine is worse here than it is abroad, and that our tourist resorts are overcrowded.
On the positive side, you say that Britain offers better cultural attractions (51 per cent), you believe it is safer (54 per cent) and its entertainment and leisure activities are as good as those anywhere else.
But Britain's main problem seems to be price. More than two thirds of you feel that holidays abroad are simply better value. To the chagrin of package-holiday companies, you are also far more adept at tracking down a bargain than ever before.
In 1998 the internet was being dismissed by travel companies as something that would not catch on - more than half the members of the Association of Independent Tour Operators did not even have a website, let alone could take online bookings.
Today four in five of you use the internet to plan a holiday. You have no qualms about researching and booking holidays online - in fact, for many of you, finding a deal is part of the fun. Only a third of readers now book a package through a tour operator, while one in five of you will sneakily grab a few brochures from a travel agent to flick through, and then book independently.
But the statistic that will really make travel agents up and down the country shudder is the fact that 61 per cent of you believe you get better value for money by making your own arrangements, with just a quarter believing that packages offer better value.
While the internet has been roundly welcomed as an innovation to help travellers, you see the advent of mobile phones on planes as a technological innovation too far. Already 6,000 readers have signed a petition to keep the skies mobile-free, after half a dozen airlines announced they are to launch in-flight calls in 2008.
Four in five of you tell us that you are against this move - citing air rage, security and the sheer annoyance factor that such a move would cause. More than a third of you would go as far as boycotting any airline that allowed them.
But in general you, the reader, seem happy with your lot. Despite ever-increasing extras in the shape of hidden fees, fuel surcharges and single supplements, travel has never been cheaper. For that reason it is no surprise that 84 per cent of you believe you got good value for money on your last holiday - even if the environmental cost of your trip is one that you are not yet prepared to consider.
]]> Life in Calabria It is a land of contrasts in many respects with below zero temperatures in the mountains in winter and temperatures of over 40°C in the summer along coastal areas.
In Calabria, the delicate perfume of the acacias is present in spring, the heady smell of fermenting grapes in the autumn and the strong odour of freshly ground olives in winter.
The people of Calabria are hospitable, fun loving, generous, genuine, outgoing and honest.
Cosenza is situated in the valley of the river Crati at its confluence with the River Busento. Chief town of the province, it is about 50 kilometres from the town of Spezzano Albanese. It is one of the most important economic and cultural centres in Calabria.
The Bruzi, one of the native Italian peoples, probably founded it. It then came under the influence of Greek culture until 204 BC when it was occupied by Roman troops. It is said that the king of the Visigoths, Alarico, is buried with his treasure in the bed of the Busento river. The Longobards, Byzantines and Aragonese also ruled the city.
The old part of the town with its narrow streets and old buildings stands on the Pancrazio hills, where a Norman castle is located. Other noteworthy buildings include: the cathedral, recently restored to its original splendour, consecrated by the Emperor Frederick II of Swabia in 1222 and the beautiful Rendano Theatre.
The present day city is lively and busy, both economically and culturally. The past years have seen the growth of the small communities around the city, which constitute today’s suburbs.
The university, founded about 30 years ago, has also been a key factor in the general development of the city.
The town of Spezzano Albanese is in the province of Cosenza and has a population of about 10,000. It is situated on a hill, 300 metres above sea level, between two rivers, the river Crati and the river Esaro.
The town overlooks the fertile plain of Sibari and the Ionian Sea. To the north there are the Pollino mountains and to the south the Sila mountains.
The old part of the town is characterised by narrow streets and imposing buildings grouped around small squares. The new part is in constant expansion.
There are four churches, two senior schools, a middle school, a junior school and three infant schools, two run by the state and one by the nuns.
An open-air amphitheatre overlooking the plain of Sibari and the distant mountains is the perfect setting for various forms of entertainment.
A typical Italian open-air market, where it is possible to buy just about anything, is held every fortnight. Spezzano is also a spa and the waters are renowned for their medicinal properties.
The many archaeological sites are proof that the area has been inhabited since time immemorial. The Greeks, the Romans and the Normans have all left their mark.
The arrival of Albanians fleeing Turkish domination at the beginning of the fifthteenth century was especially important.
To this day, the descendants of these refugees speak an ancient form of Albanian and preserve the traditions and customs of their ancestors. The traditional dress worn by the women on feast days is beautiful.
Unemployment levels are high especially among young people. Many people work in the service industries or the building trade. Agriculture also provides employment for many.
The area is famous for citrus fruits, peaches, olives and wine.
Castrovillari is a lively town encircled by mountains about 22 kilometres from Spezzano. The town comprises a modern quarter and an old part that is much smaller.
In the old part of town there is a castle with a square base and round towers built in 1490. An old convent, which was recently renovated, houses a small but delightful theatre and is now a very active centre for cultural activities. The modern part of the town offers good shopping.
The Ionian and Tyrrhenian coasts: The Ionian coast offers long, mostly sandy, beaches bordered with pine forests.
Towns such as Roseto, Capo Spulico, Trebisacce, Sibari, Corigliano, Rossano, Crotone, Monasterace and Brancaleone, to name but a few, are thriving holiday centres rich in history and folklore.
The Tyrrhenian coast is more irregular and dominated by steep tree-covered hills. The beaches are often small but set among spectacular rock formations. The water is crystal clear.
Here, the towns are lively holiday resorts during the summer months but are interesting historically and worth visiting at any time of the year. Praia a Mare, Diamante, Guardia Piemontese, Pizzo Calabro, Tropea, Scilla and Reggio Calabria are among the most important centres.
The Mountains: Although the sea seems ever present in Calabria it must not be forgotten that it is mainly a mountainous region.
Three mountain ranges are present: Pollino, Sila and Aspromonte. All three mountain ranges are unique with their own flora and fauna.
The Pollino Mountains in the north of the region are rugged and form a natural barrier, which separates Calabria from the rest of Italy.
The Serra Dolcedorme is the highest point, which rises to 2,267 metres. Parts are heavily wooded while others are vast wind-swept plateaus with little vegetation. These mountains are home to the Pino Loricato, a type of pine tree, found only in this area.
The Sila is a vast plateau, about 1,200 metres above sea level, which stretches for nearly 2,000 square kilometres along the central part of Calabria. The highest point is Botte Donato, which reaches 1,928 metres. The area boasts numerous lakes, wide-open spaces and dense coniferous forests.
Aspromonte forms the southernmost tip of the Italian peninsula bordered by the sea on three sides. This mighty mountainous complex, whose highest point at Montalto reaches 1,995 metres, is formed of wide terraces that slope down towards the sea.
The lowest slopes are rich in vineyards and fruit orchards. Moving upwards olives and chestnut trees appear while the higher regions are covered in vast dense forests of oak, pine, beech and fir trees.
]]> Le Marche AMONG sleepy Italian hilltop villages, there can be few sleepier than Bargni – its permanent population numbers just eight. The village, near Italy’s east coast, is used to incomers during the summer months, when foreign and domestic holidaymakers come to admire the panoramic views of undulating hills and valleys, with sun-soaked cypress trees and other medieval hilltop villages. But Bargni may now acquire rather more permanent residents: the conversion of the 15th-century manor house, Casa Serafini, into 42 flats and townhouses is nearing completion.
Bargni is in the Marche region (pronounced mar-kay) on Italy’s central eastern coast, which is widely considered an up-and-coming area. “Until a few years ago, even Italians hadn’t considered moving to Le Marche, but that’s starting to change,” explains Renato Tagliaferro, the son of the developer of Casa Serafini. Northern Italians, mainly from Turin and Milan, are moving to the region, along with Britons and – to a lesser extent – Dutch and Scandinavian buyers.
Part of the reason is that the area is cheaper than its neighbours: according to Tagliaferro, properties in Le Marche cost 40 per cent less than in Tuscany and are 30 per cent cheaper than Umbria. Unlike Umbria, Le Marche has a coast and beaches, such as Portonovo, pictured above. Indeed, Casa Serafini is only a half-hour drive from Ancona, a smart regional airport serviced by Ryanair, and the nearest beach is a 20-minute drive away.
Prices at Casa Serafini start at £102,000 for a one-bedroom flat, with a three-storey, three-bedroom townhouse costing £340,000. For that you are also provided with an on-site care-taker and a plentiful supply of olive oil, produced on the estate from trees set in the four hectares (ten acres) of land overlooked by the properties. A tennis court and swimming pool are planned.
The first phase of the development – the conversion of the old manor house – is due for completion by the middle of next year. Subsequent phases will involve new-build apartments at the rear of the development. Some original features, such as wooden shutters, balconies, exposed beams and bricks, have been retained in the converted flats and houses. Some homes still have their ancient cellars, originally used to store olive oil and wine, both of which the Serafini family made and sold. The cellars are now simple, cavernous rooms, ripe for use as bedrooms or living rooms, connected to the rest of the houses by a lift or stairs.
A British couple, Eve and Bob Wainwright, have decided to buy in Le Marche and are weighing the options at Casa Serafini. “We looked at Tuscany, but it’s a lot dearer and more commercial,” Eve says. “We’ve been to Le Marche on lots of holidays and have found it more authentically Italian: you don’t get the hordes of tourists.”
However, Le Marche still has cheaper properties with far more space, so why would anyone consider Casa Serafini? “You can buy a farmhouse for between £50,000 and £60,000 here,” says Tagliaferro, “but it will need a lot of work. Unless you speak good Italian and have good connections it’s going to be a nightmare. The bureaucracy makes it hard to get things done and everything moves slowly. I’ve heard stories of people buying their dream home in Le Marche and, after three years of having to deal with the authorities and spending every weekend visiting the property, losing all interest.”
Jonathan Salsbury, of Colliers CRE, which is in charge of selling the development, says that the typical British buyer of Italian property has visited Italy on holiday and knows and loves the country – much like the Wainwrights. “It’s not about pure investment, it’s about people who want to use the property for holidays and maybe rent it out some of the time to cover some of their costs,” he says. “It is similar to the market in France. Agents say you will see prices here rise 10 per cent or so per year. You don’t get the same 15 to 20 per cent growth as in other emerging countries, but what you do get is a steady, mature market.”
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southern italy travel agencies news:
Almost Wordless Wednesday: Risotto al Tastasal <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/meatyrisotti/r/blr1041.htm"><IMG SRC="http://z.about.com/d/italianfood/1/0/J/9/1/risttotastasalww.jpg" BORDER=0 HEIGHT=393 WIDTH=298 ALT="Risotto al Tastasal in a Cheese Wheel"></A><BR><BR>
The concepts of Risotto and Cheese go hand-in-hand, and if you are organizing a party or dinner for a significant number of people, one of the nicest ways to serve a risotto is in a hollowed out wheel of cheese. In this case Monte Veronese, a mild slightly nutty cows' milk cheese made in the mountains above Verona, and the risotto is risotto al tastasal, a risotto traditionally made in the Veneto during the salami-making season (before filling the casings), to judge if the <em>impasto,</em> or filling of the salami is is properly seasoned. The heat of the risotto melts a little of the cheese, and makes it even tastier!<BR><BR>
If you click on the photo you'll be taken to the risotto al tastasal recipe (you could also use a mild sausage, if need be).
Some other risotto recipes from Verona.
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<LI><b><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/meatyrisotti/r/blr1042.htm">Risotto alla Pilota</A></b><br />A hearty risotto with lots of pork, for the people who worked Verona's rice mills and needed substantial foods.</LI>
<LI><b><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr1046.htm">Risotto al Radicchio Rosso di Verona</A></b><br />The bitterness of radicchio goes wonderfully with the creamy texture of a risotto.</LI>
<LI><b><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/meatyrisotti/r/blr1040.htm">Risotto All'Isolana</A></b><br />A classic from Isola della Scala, the heart of Veronese rice production, made with pork and cheese.</LI>
</UL>
Veronese rice production, you wonder? Southeast from Verona is Isola della Scala, a pretty town surrounded by rice paddies, where Vialone Nano, one of the great Italian short-grained risotto rices, is grown. <BR><BR>
<B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/ricerisotto/r/blr0063a.htm">Making Risotto: Basic Instructions</A> | <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/illustratedrecipesmore/ss/aa102207.htm">Making Risotto, Illustrated</A></B><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/10/almost-wordless-wednesday-risotto-al-tastasal.htm">Almost Wordless Wednesday: Risotto al Tastasal</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Wednesday, March 10th, 2010 at 02:13:41.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/10/almost-wordless-wednesday-risotto-al-tastasal.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/10/almost-wordless-wednesday-risotto-al-tastasal.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/10/almost-wordless-wednesday-risotto-al-tastasal.htm&zItl=Almost Wordless Wednesday: Risotto al Tastasal">Email this</a></p> Way Off Topic: Felice 8 Marzo! March 8 is International Woman's Day, and is an occasion for considerable celebration in Italy. <BR><BR>
Not familiar with L'8 Marzo? Like many other days set aside to celebrate the rights of workers, the International Woman's Day's origins are American: At the turn of the last century women were entering the workforce in record numbers in the United States, and began to agitate for better working conditions and pay, as well as the vote. In 1908 the Socialist women of the US held demonstrations for improved working conditions, better pay, and suffrage on February 28. On February 28 1909 several thousand women turned out in Manhattan, and during the same winter the women working in the sweatshops struck for better conditions and pay, with the support of the Woman's Trade Union, which provided bail money and food.
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American women continued to observe February 28 as Woman's Day, while in 1910 the delegates of the Socialist International Meeting in Copenhagen voted unanimously to establish an International Women's Day, without setting a specific date.
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So in 1911 the women of Austria, Denmark, Germany and Switzerland demonstrated on March 19, and it is estimated that more than a million people participated. A week later, on March 25, in Manhattan the Triangle fire claimed the lives of more than 140 workers, mostly immigrant girls -- there was only one fire escape for the hundreds of people trapped in the burning floors -- and the newspaper accounts led to calls for reform, while tying the fire to the struggle for women's rights in popular imagery. (For more information, including heart-rending newspaper accounts, see the <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://www.ilr.cornell.edu/trianglefire/">Triangle Fire pages</a>).
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Yearly demonstrations continued, becoming associated with the peace movements that formed as a response to the gathering clouds of war in Europe; in particular, Russian women settled on February 28 as the day for their demonstrations. And continued to demonstrate during the war; despite opposition from other activists, on the last Sunday of February -- the 23rd -- 1917 they went on strike to protest conditions at home and the more than 2 million war dead. They called for "bread and peace," and four days later the Czar capitulated; one of the first things the provisional government did was grant women the right to vote. The date, February 23 on the Julian calendar then used in Russia, was March 8 in the Gregorian calendar used elsewhere, and that's why International Woman's Day is March 8.
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In Italy it's an occasion for meetings, talks, and demonstrations, and men traditionally give women a sprig of mimosa, with its bright yellow blossoms, to mark the occasion. I'm off to buy Daughter Clelia and Wife Elisabetta theirs.
Again, happy March 8 to all who celebrate it!<p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/08/way-off-topic-felice-8-marzo.htm">Way Off Topic: Felice 8 Marzo!</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Monday, March 8th, 2010 at 01:14:00.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/08/way-off-topic-felice-8-marzo.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/08/way-off-topic-felice-8-marzo.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/08/way-off-topic-felice-8-marzo.htm&zItl=Way Off Topic: Felice 8 Marzo!">Email this</a></p> An Italian Meal for the Week <B>To Begin, an Aside: </B>I have just posted <A HREF="http://italianwinereview.blogspot.com/2010/03/chianti-classico-2010-anteprima.html">my notes from this year's Chianti Classico vintage presentation</A>, and also selections of the <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifscoffee/tp/aa030510a.htm">Chianti D'Annata</A> and <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifscoffee/tp/aa030510b.htm">Riserve</A> that impressed me. However, these wines are still in Italy; what you will now find in stores are the <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifscoffee/tp/aa031709a.htm">Chianti D'Annata (vintage wines)</A> and <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifscoffee/tp/aa031709b.htm">Chianti Riserve</A> presented last year. And what might you serve with them? <BR><BR>
<strong>Starting with a <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifscoffee/tp/aa031709a.htm">Chianti d'Annata</A>:</strong><br /> <br /><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/antipasti/ss/aa092906.htm">Mixed cold cuts</A>, <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/antipasti/ss/aa100206.htm">antipasto misto</A>, and <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/antipasti/a/aa031998.htm">crostini</A>.<BR><BR>
Followed by (we're in winter and it's cold) Pasta (my father-in-law is partial to penne) al sugo, with a <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/meatsauces/r/blr0026.htm">bolognese sauce</A>, which is as common in Tuscany as it is in Emilia Romagna.<BR><BR>
<strong>Then, moving up to a <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifscoffee/tp/aa031709b.htm">Chianti Classico Riserva</A>:</strong><br /><br />
You might have stewed <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/furredgameetc/r/blr0655.htm">wild boar</A> (or <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/beefvealstews/r/blr0251b.htm">beef</A>), or perhaps a <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/beefbracioleetc/r/blr0568.htm">bistecca alla fiorentina</A> (a portherhouse steak), served with <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/vegetablessalads/r/blr0083.htm">spinach</A> and either <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/potatoes/r/blr1106.htm">fried</A> or <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/potatoes/r/blr1917.htm">mashed</A> potatoes.<BR><BR>
To finish up, <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/spoondesserts/r/blr1554.htm">Zuppa Inglese</A>. Some might be tempted to serve it with a sweet wine, a vinsanto even, but I would simply want an espresso, and (perhaps) a tiny glass of grappa.<p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/05/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-36.htm">An Italian Meal for the Week</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Friday, March 5th, 2010 at 14:39:30.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/05/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-36.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/05/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-36.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/05/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-36.htm&zItl=An Italian Meal for the Week">Email this</a></p> Almost Wordless Wednesday: Fesa di Tacchino, or Turkey Breast <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/favoriterecipes/tp/aa010710.htm"><IMG SRC="http://z.about.com/d/italianfood/1/0/D/9/1/fesatacchinoww.jpg" BORDER=0 HEIGHT=233 WIDTH=300 ALT="Fesa di Tacchino"></A><br /><br />Whole turkeys are rare in Italian markets: A few appear around Christmas, but during the rest of the year you'll mostly find skinned turkey breasts, generally sold either whole or by the half, though some enterprising merchants slice them and charge (often quite a bit) more for having done so. There are also turkey drumsticks, but not nearly as many, and I occasionally wonder where they go. Most likely to processed foods.<BR><BR>
Returning to turkey breast, it is quite popular in Italy because in addition to being inexpensive it is lean, mildly flavored, and adaptable: one can do all sorts of things with it. If you click on the photo you'll be taken to <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/favoriterecipes/tp/aa010710.htm">a collection of turkey breast recipes</A>.
And here are several chicken breast recipes that will also work quite well with turkey breast:
<UL>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/chickencapon/r/blr1836.htm">Chicken (or Turkey) Rollups with Bell Peppers</A></B><br />Bell peppers and breast meat makes for an ideal spring-summer dish.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/chickencapon/r/blr1453.htm">Chicken (or Turkey) Breasts with Hazelnuts</A></B><BR>Tasty, and easy to do.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/chickencapon/r/blr1651.htm">Chicken (or Turkey) Cuscus & Caper Salad</A></B><BR>This is a distinctly modern Italian revisitation of a traditional Italian food -- Sicily's cuscus -- of the sort that you might find in a trendy caf?hat caters to those on their office lunch hour, or who want a quick refreshing bite to eat.</LI>
</UL><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/03/almost-wordless-wednesday-fesa-di-tacchino-or-turkey-breast.htm">Almost Wordless Wednesday: Fesa di Tacchino, or Turkey Breast</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010 at 05:18:38.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/03/almost-wordless-wednesday-fesa-di-tacchino-or-turkey-breast.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/03/almost-wordless-wednesday-fesa-di-tacchino-or-turkey-breast.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/03/almost-wordless-wednesday-fesa-di-tacchino-or-turkey-breast.htm&zItl=Almost Wordless Wednesday: Fesa di Tacchino, or Turkey Breast">Email this</a></p> Involtini.... Vegetariani Involtini are generally meat based, a scallop or braciola wrapped around a filling and cooked. But one can also use vegetables -- either borad leaves or slices of something along the lines of eggplant -- as a base, and wrap them up around a meatless filling. The result is perfect for a light lunch, and also well suited to Lent, if you are observing it. A couple of ideas:
<UL>
<LI><b><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/vegetablepiesandmore/r/blr1955.htm">Involtini Vegetatiani con Biete e Patate</A></b><br />Leafy vegetables such as Swiss chard are perfectly suited to being rolled up, and do a fine job of containing a potato filling. This will make for a nice light lunch, if served with crusty bread and a tossed salad.</li>
<LI><b><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/zucchinirecipes/r/blr1556.htm">Involtini di Zucchine</A></b><br />With a cheese and bell pepper filling.</li>
<LI><b><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/eggplant/r/blr1481.htm">Involtini di Melanzana alle Noci</A></b><br />This is a quick easy eggplant rollup recipe that is quite newfangled in style, and will work nicely as part of a light lunch, especially if made with care, at which point it becomes quite impressive.</li>
<LI><b><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/veggieantipasti/r/blr0744.htm">Involtini di Peperone</A></b><br />A classic Piemontese recipe, roasted bell pepper strips rolled up around tuna.</li>
</UL><BR>
<B><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/28/rose-gray-obituary"> Farewell, Rose</a></B><BR>
I did not know Rose Gray, and have never been to the River Cafe, one of London's most influential Italian restaurants. But Ronan Bennett's tribute is beautiful, and makes me wish I had had occasion to go. <p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/01/involtini-vegetariani.htm">Involtini.... Vegetariani</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Monday, March 1st, 2010 at 05:25:20.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/01/involtini-vegetariani.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/01/involtini-vegetariani.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/03/01/involtini-vegetariani.htm&zItl=Involtini.... Vegetariani">Email this</a></p> An Italian Meal For The Week The days are significantly longer now, and it has gotten warmer. Not any drier, however, and dishes that bring warmth to the table are still quite welcome. Few things are quite as good at bringing heat to a plate as Risotto, so we'll start with it:
<BR><BR>
<A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/vegetarianrisotti/r/blr1876.htm">Risotto al Rosmarino</A>: Risotto is generally seasoned with some sort of meat or vegetable, or something creamy. But there are other options, and a risotto seasoned with rosemary will have a delightful woodsy feel and provide a nice change of pace. Followed by: <BR><BR>
<A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/chickencapon/r/blr1453.htm">Petti Di Pollo Alle Nocciole</A>, Chicken Breasts with Hazel Nuts: Another woodsy dish, and quite tasty too. And, on the side, in honor of dieting, a tossed salad seasoned with a drizzle of olive oil, salt, and a drop of vinegar.<BR><BR>
<BR>To Finish Up? Fresh fruit, and this time I might go with a pear. Wine? Red, not too heavy, and Campriano's Chianti Colli Senesi might be nice.<p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/26/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-35.htm">An Italian Meal For The Week</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Friday, February 26th, 2010 at 19:29:02.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/26/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-35.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/26/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-35.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/26/an-italian-meal-for-the-week-35.htm&zItl=An Italian Meal For The Week">Email this</a></p> Almost Wordless Wednesday: Polenta! <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/polentarecipes/a/aa030498_2.htm"><IMG SRC="http://z.about.com/d/italianfood/1/0/I/9/1/polentapaioloww.jpg" BORDER=0 HEIGHT=376 WIDTH=293 ALT="A Paiolo, with Polenta"></A><BR><BR>
Yes, polenta is corn meal mush, and it was (and still is) a winter staple in Northern Italy. The standard recipe says to stir it slowly in a paiolo, or copper pot, as it thickens, and Italians who follow this course generally buy a motor-driven paiolo of the sort shown here, which I picked up on sale in a supermarket years ago. If you don't have a pot of this kind, however, all is not lost. <BR><BR>
John, who lives outside Milano, adds his cornmeal to the water when it boils, seals the pot, and barely simmers it for 40 minutes, while Remo's grandmother taught him to make polenta in a slow cooker. In other words, you can stir, if you want, but you can also go about your business while the polenta cooks on its own.<BR><BR>
Got polenta? Polenta is a foil, on a par with bread, and begs an accompaniment. If you're being quite simple, good olive oil, a sprinkle of sea salt, and a wedge of mild pecorino toscano is very good, but people usually want more, especially in the cooler winter months. Stew, for example:
<UL>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/beefvealstews/r/blr1922.htm">Spicy Braised Beef With Polenta</A></B><BR>Though this packs a punch, the sauce and the polenta go together beautifully. Should you prefer it less hot, reduce the pepper content.
</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/beefvealstews/r/blr1851.htm">Lo Stufato Dell'Adriana</A></B><br />Simple home cooking, a pork and beef stew that simmers for hours, warming the house, and then the table.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/beefvealstews/r/blr1293.htm">Carne da Galera, or Jailhouse Meat</A></B><br />The name comes from the fact that the cuts involved are less noble, and tended to go bad quickly in the days before refrigeration. Hence this herb-laden pot-roasting method, which was able to cover any off smells the meat might have developed.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/beefvealstews/r/blr1765.htm">Pastissada di Manzo, Beef Pastissada</A></B><BR>Pastissada is an old Veronese stew that draws from Austro-Hungarian tradition (Verona was a part of the Empire for a long time) and brings goulash to mind. Most of the recipes I've seen call for horse meat, but this one is beef based.</LI>
</UL>
And what to serve with you polenta and stew? The combination begs a substantial red wine. An Amarone, for example, and <A HREF="http://italianwinereview.blogspot.com/2009/02/thoughts-about-2005-amarone.html">here you will find my notes for the 2005 vintage</A>, which is currently in stores. Curious about 2006? I went to the vintage presentation two weeks ago, and <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifscoffee/tp/aa022510.htm">here is a selection of the 2006 wines</A> that impressed me the most. <p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/24/almost-wordless-wednesday-polenta.htm">Almost Wordless Wednesday: Polenta!</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 at 09:06:18.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/24/almost-wordless-wednesday-polenta.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/24/almost-wordless-wednesday-polenta.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/24/almost-wordless-wednesday-polenta.htm&zItl=Almost Wordless Wednesday: Polenta!">Email this</a></p> A Few Fish Recipes, Not Just For Lent Lent's arrival does require a mental shift in gears, if one chooses to observe it: <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/beefbracioleetc/r/blr1570.htm">burgers</A> (what Italians call Svizzere), <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/chickencapon/r/blr0956.htm">chicken</A>, <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/meatsauces/r/blr0026.htm">tagliatelle alla bolognese</A>... They're all out. And that leaves us with... <br /><br /><strong>Fish!</strong><BR><BR> Wonderful, healthy, wholesome fish, which is also low in calories and will help those who are not observing Lent prepare for the Summer Swimsuit Season. Yes, there are reasons everyone should enjoy fish! This said, how about:
<UL>
<LI><b><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/od/freshfishrecipes/r/blr1949.htm">Pagello Al Sale Aromatico, Pandora Roasted in Aromatic Salt</a></b><br />
Salt roasting is a very simple technique. However, one can flavor the salt, which will then impart delightful flavor to the fish as well.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/baccalandstockfish/r/blr1326.htm">Potatoes and Baccal?t;/A></B><br />Baccal?salt cod, is one of the unsung heroes of the culinary world. Potatoes do an excellent job of supporting it in this recipe, which has a Sicilian feel to it.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/octopuscalamariseppie/r/blr0067.htm">Seppie in Inzimino</A></B><br />Cuttlefish with greens is a traditional Tuscan way of cooking cuttlefish of all sizes; you can also use octopus.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/freshfishthebasics/r/blr0850.htm">Pesce Lesso, Boiled Fish</A></B><br />Boiled fish is easy to do and can be tremendously satisfying. </LI>
</UL><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/22/a-few-fish-recipes-not-just-for-lent.htm">A Few Fish Recipes, Not Just For Lent</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Monday, February 22nd, 2010 at 07:56:58.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/22/a-few-fish-recipes-not-just-for-lent.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/22/a-few-fish-recipes-not-just-for-lent.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/22/a-few-fish-recipes-not-just-for-lent.htm&zItl=A Few Fish Recipes, Not Just For Lent">Email this</a></p> Greetings from Montalcino! Come February the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, the organization that oversees the production of Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy's most famed and sought after wines, organizes a presentation of the current vintages the producers are releasing: The <B>2005 Brunello di Montalcino</B>, the <B>2008 Rosso di Montalcino</B> -- Brunello's younger sibling, from a nicely balanced, graceful vintage, -- <B>Moscadello</B>, a sweet white wine made from the Moscato grape that was famed long before anyone in Montalcino took an interest in reds, and <B>Sant'Antimo</B>, a catch-all denomination that includes both red and white wines, some of which are quite good. <BR><BR>
I won't be commenting on the tasting until next week, but in the meantime here's a menu one could build around the wines.
<UL>
<LI><B>With a White Sant'Antimo:</B><BR>Mixed cold cuts and cheeses, or perhaps <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0904.htm">pici all'aglione</A>, thick stranded extraordinarily garlicky pasta.
<LI><B>With a Red Sant'Antimo, or a Rosso di Montalcino:</B><BR><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0655.htm">Pappardelle sul Cinghiale</A>, broad strips of pasta with a wild boar sauce (other furred game will be fine if need be).
<LI><B>With a Brunello di Montalcino:</B><BR>The obvious answer is a <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0248.htm">roast</A>, but I might opt for a <i><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0224.htm">scottiglia</A>,</I> a rich stew made by the charcoal makers of the area from whatever animals they could catch. As side dishes, boiled white (cannellini) beans and <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0083.htm">spinach</A>.
<LI><B>To finish up with the Moscadello,</B><BR>A simple <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0559.htm">Sienese Torta di Ricotta</A>.</LI></UL>
Buon Appetito!<p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/18/greetings-from-montalcino.htm">Greetings from Montalcino!</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Thursday, February 18th, 2010 at 01:54:06.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/18/greetings-from-montalcino.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/18/greetings-from-montalcino.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/18/greetings-from-montalcino.htm&zItl=Greetings from Montalcino!">Email this</a></p> Almost Wordless Wednesday: It's Ash Wednesday! <IMG SRC="http://z.about.com/d/italianfood/1/0/H/9/1/triglieww.jpg" BORDER=0 HEIGHT=416 WIDTH=300 ALT="Reef Mullet"><br /><BR>
And that means, for the Catholic among us, the beginning of Lent, when the Church asks people to forgo meat as part of the spiritual renewal leading up to Easter. Avoiding meat is actually not at all a bad idea even for non-Catholics, because it allows us to rid our bodies of all sorts of toxins, and also opens the way to all sorts of fish. For example, the reef mullet pictured here, which are delightfully flavorful. You might use them to make:
<UL>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/freshfishrecipes/r/blr0797.htm">Triglie alla Livornese</A>:</B> With a zesty tomato sauce.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/freshfishrecipes/r/blr0824.htm">Triglie al Cartoccio</A>:</B> Wrapped up with other delights and baked.</LI>
<LI><B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/freshfishrecipes/r/blr0581.htm">Triglie con Uvette e Pinoli</A>:</B> With raisins and pine nuts, a classic Italian Jewish recipe.</LI>
</UL>
<B><A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/fishdishes/ig/La-Galleria-del-Pesce/">La Galleria Del Pesce, The Fish Gallery</A> | <A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/aboutingredients/ss/aa081106.htm">How To Select Fresh Fish</A><BR>
<A HREF="http://italianfood.about.com/od/holidaydishes/tp/aa010306.htm">More Lenten Recipes</A></B><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/17/almost-wordless-wednesday-its-ash-wednesday.htm">Almost Wordless Wednesday: It's Ash Wednesday!</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/">About.com Italian Food</a> on Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 at 01:01:36.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/17/almost-wordless-wednesday-its-ash-wednesday.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/17/almost-wordless-wednesday-its-ash-wednesday.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://italianfood.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://italianfood.about.com/b/2010/02/17/almost-wordless-wednesday-its-ash-wednesday.htm&zItl=Almost Wordless Wednesday: It's Ash Wednesday!">Email this</a></p>
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